The horses run anywhere they want

15 July 2025

If you’re captivated by horses, this turnaround might be fun: on Assateague Island, off the coasts of Maryland and Virginia, the humans are captives of the horses, who do whatever they want. The humans have rules to abide by.

But really, the rules aren’t obnoxious. Nor are the horses. Camping on the island is delightful and not expensive. The surf and sand are fresh; the horses visit the campgrounds and their guests alfresco, as very casual hosts. For more information: https://www.nps.gov/asis/index.htm

Unforgettable Assateague moment:  years ago, standing on the beach there on a moonless September night, I felt a sudden rumbling. A herd of horses appeared out of the dark, galloping at my friend and me. It was one of those times when your memory captures an image that’s a keeper. Without slowing, the herd divided around us and drummed onward up the beach into the dark again. —Making us fans forever, of course.